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-   -   GundamRX91 - diario arrampicata (http://www.fituncensored.com/forums/arrampicata-sportiva/136-gundamrx91-diario-arrampicata.html)

GundamRX91 02-09-2013 07:24 AM

29/08/2013 climbing training

A) TRX inverted row pull up 2x15
B) TRX one arm inverted row pull up 2x5
C) TRX push up 3x10
D1) dips bench 3x12
D2) torso raiser 3x6
D3) leg raise 3x6
E) one arm lock off (from chin up) 6x1x5"
F) pull up ws 3x3@20, ms 3x3@20, cs 3x3@20
G) chin up 3x4@20, neutral grip 3x4@20

campus board

A) dead hang (3 cm) 6x4"@25
B) lock off (3 cm) 4x4"@20
C) pull up (3 cm) 6x1@20
D) assisted one arm dead hang (3 cm) 6x4"

system

A) overhanging boulder

GundamRX91 04-09-2013 07:31 AM

03/09/2013 climbing training

A1) inverted row pull up 2x22
A2) dips bench 2x10
B1) slow pull up ms 3x6
B2) slow push up ms 3x10
B3) slow dips bench 3x8
C1) high pull up 3x7
C2) leg lift+rotation 3x4+4
D) assisted one arm chin up 5x2
E) assisted one arm pull up 5x2

campus board

A) asymmetric climb (3 cm)(1+2->3) 4x3+3
B) asymmetric climb (3 cm)(1+2->3->4->3->4) 3x3+3
C) climb one hand+two finger (3 cm)(1->2->3->2->1) 5x1+1
D) two finger (m/r) pull up (3 cm) 3x5
E) two finger (i/m) pull up (3 cm) 3x2

system

A) overhanging boulder
B) roof routes

GundamRX91 11-09-2013 07:32 AM

10/09/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x2
B1) pull up ms 3x7@7
B2) push up csb 3x6@7
C1) dips bar 3x10
C2) one leg front lever 10,6,6
D) pistols 2x8

finger board

A) pull up + lock off (1 cm) 10x2+6"

campus board

A) slow climb (3 cm) (1->2->3->4) 2x3
B) asymmetric climb (3 cm)(1+2->3) 4x3
C) asymmetric climb (3 cm)(1+2->3->4->3->4) 1x3
D) asymmetric climb (3 cm)(1+2->4->5->4->5) 1x3
E) lock off + climb (3 cm)(1+1->2) 2x3
F) lock off + climb (3 cm)(1+1->3) 2x3

system

roof and overhanging routes

GundamRX91 15-09-2013 10:43 AM

15/09/2013 home training

Ho ripreso con gli allenamenti casalinghi con i pesi, dove ho fatto qualche esercizio per petto, spalle, braccia e addome. L'obbiettivo è di mantenere una certa forza generale e abitudine allo sforzo fisico.

GundamRX91 19-09-2013 07:35 AM

17/09/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x15@7
B1) pull up 3x6@7
B2) pushup csb 3x6@7
C1) easy muscle up 3x6
C2) torso raiser 3x5
C3) dips bench 3x10
D) pistols 2x5

campus board

A) asymmetric climb (3 cm)(2+1->4) 4x3+3
B) asymmetric climb (3 cm)(2+1->4->5->4->5) 2x4+4
C) two finger-one hand climb (3 cm)(1->2->3->2->1) 2x2+2
D) two finger (m/r) pull up (3 cm) 3x3

system

boulders and overhanging routes.

Insomma questi pistols proprio non riesco a "digerirli".... dovevo fare 3 serie da 8 ripetizioni, ma appena inizio a pistol-are me ne passa la voglia :D
Bene il resto, ma è tempo di modifiche per cui ora preparo la nuova scheda per i prossimi due mesi.

GundamRX91 20-09-2013 07:26 AM

19/09/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x15@7
B1) pull up ms 2x6@7
B2) push up ms 2x10@7
C1) pull up cs 2x6@7
C2) push up cs 2x10@7
D1) dips bar 2x4@7
D2) chin up 2x5@7
E) assisted one arm chin up 2x2, 1x5
F) leg raise with rotation 2x10
G) leg raise o.t.h. 2x5

campus board

A) pull up (3 cm) 2x3
B) three finger pull up (3 cm) 2x3 + 2x3
C) climb (3 cm) (1->2->3->4) 4x1
D) climb/return (3 cm)(1->3->5) 2x2
E) climb/return (3 cm)(1->3->5->7->8) 2x1

system

roof and overhanging routes (small holds).

GundamRX91 23-09-2013 07:40 AM

21/09/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x16@7
B) pull up+lock off+slow negative 2x4+4"+4"@7
C) push up ms feets up 12,10@7
D) dips bar 2x6@7
E) chin up 2x6@7
F) leg raise 2x5

fingers board

A) pull up (various holds) 2x4+4+4+4

campus board

A) climb/return (3 cm)(1->2->3->4->5->6->7->8) 4x1
B) climb+hold (3 cm)(1->4+4) 2x4

Sessione alternativa alla roccia.... Questa settimana faccio scarico attivo (un pò di ginnastica e poi solo pannello), mentre la prossima inizio la nuova tabella.

GundamRX91 25-09-2013 07:41 AM

24/09/2013 climbing training

scarico attivo: circuiti su pannello e poco altro.

GundamRX91 02-10-2013 12:05 AM

01/10/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x15@7
B1) push up ms 3x10@7
B2) pull up 3x6@7
B3) dips bar 3x6@7
C1) push up cs 2x8@7
C2) pull up 2x6@7
D) leg raise 2x8

Campus board

A) pull up (3 cm) di 3x4
B) slow climb /return (3 cm) (1_2_3_4_5_6) 4x1
C) two finger pull up (3 cm) 3,4,4
D) two finger dead hang (3 cm) 3x4"

System

Overhanging routes"

GundamRX91 04-10-2013 07:13 AM

03/10/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x15@7
B) push up ms 4x10@7
C) slow pull up + lock off 2x3+5"@7
D) torso raise 4x5
E) one arm lock off from chin up 6x1x6"
F) pull up ms + lock off 5x4+5"@10
G) chin up + lock off 5x4+5"@10
H) pull up ms + lock off 5x2+3"@20
I) chin up + lock off 5x2+3"@20

campus board

A) dead hang (3 cm) 6x6"@20
B) dead hang (2 cm) 6x4"@20

system

overhanging routes.

GundamRX91 09-10-2013 06:43 AM

08/10/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x16@7
B1) pull up 3x7@7
B2) push up csb 3x7@7
B3) dips bench 3x10@7
C) dips bar 4x10
D) leg raise with rotation 4x10

Campus board

A) slow climb (3 cm) (1-2-3-4) 6x1
B) slow climb (3 cm) (1-3-5) 6x1
C) two finger one hand climb (3 cm) 4x1

System

Overhanging routes

GundamRX91 10-10-2013 10:46 PM

10/10/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x16@7
B1) dips bar 3x10
B2) leg raise o.t.h 3x5
C) push up ws + push up ms 2x10+10,5
D) pull up ms 5x1@25 5x1@30
E) assisted one arm chin up 3x3
F) assisted one arm pull up 3x3

campus board

A) climb (3 cm)(1->2->3->4) 3x1
B) climb/return (3 cm)(1->2->3->4->3->2->1) 3x1
C) double climb/return (3 cm)(3->2->3) 3x6

system

A) overhaging route with small holds

GundamRX91 16-10-2013 07:28 AM

15/10/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x17@7
B1) pull up ms 3x5@7
B2) push up ws 3x20@7
B3) chin up 3x5@7
B4) push up ms 3x8@7
C1) dips bar 3x10
C2) torso raise 3x5
D1) crunch 2x15
D2) hyperextension 2x8

campus board
A) pull up four fingers (3 cm) 2x3
B) pull up three fingers (3 cm) 2x3
C) pullup two fingers (3 cm) 2x3
D) asymmetric climb (3 cm)(1+3->5+5) 10x1
E) climb/return (3 cm)(1->2->1->3->1->4->1) 3x2
F) dead hang (2 cm) 3x30"

system

A) overhanging and roof routes

GundamRX91 18-10-2013 07:32 AM

17/10/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x30
B) one arm inverted row pull up 2x8
C1) push up csb 3x10
C2) pull up ms 3x8
C3) dips bar 3x10
C4) dips bench 3x10
D) one arm lock off from chin up 3x1x5"
E) lock off from pull up 4x1x10"@10
F) one arm negative pull up 2x3+3

campus board

A) four fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x3
B) three fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x3
C) two finegers pull up (3 cm) 2x3
D) two fingers dead hang (3 cm) 5x1x6"@10
E) two fingers dead hang (2 cm) 5x1x4"
F) asymmetric lock off (3 cm)(1+3) 2x3x3"

system

A) overhanging and roof routes

GundamRX91 19-10-2013 12:51 PM

19/10/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x16@16
B) push up ms 3x12@7
C) pull up ms 3x8@7
D) dips bar 5,6,7@7
E) dips bench 3x15@7
F) pull up ms+ lock off 3x1x5"@15
G) pull up ms+ lock off 3x1x4"@20
H) pull up ms+ lock off 3x1x3"@25
I) dragon flag 10",10",8"
L) crunch 3x12
M) one arm 90° lock off 3x2x3"

campus board

A) climb/return (3 cm)(1->2->1) 2x4
B) climb/return (3 cm)(1->2->3->2->1) 2x3
C) climb/return (3 cm)(1->2->3->4->3->2->1) 2x2
D) climb (3 cm)(1->4->6) 2x2
E) two finger pull up (3 cm) 3x3
F) two finger dead hang (3 cm) 3x8"@7
G) two finger dead hang (2 cm) 3x6"
H) assisted one arm dead hang 3x1x8"

system

A) vertical route@7
B) roof route@7
C) overhanging and roof routes

Niente arrampicata su roccia.... ma molta palestra!!!!!

GundamRX91 23-10-2013 07:12 AM

22/10/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x16@7
B1) pull up ms 5x8
B2) push up ms 5x12
B3) chin up 5x8
B4) dips bar 5x10
B5) dips bench 5x10
B6) crunch 5x10
C1) dragon flag 4x1x8"
C2) pull up neutral grip 4x8
C3) leg raise 4x6

campus board

A) pull up 4 fingers (3 cm) 2x3
B) pull up three fingers (3 cm) 2x3
C) pull up two fingers (3 cm) 2x3
D) pull up two fingers (3 cm) 2x2@7 2x3@7

system

roof and overhanging routes (big holds, small holds)

Allenamento a circuito.... decisamente impegnativo, anche se pensavo peggio. Non è stata una passeggiata ma penso si possa rifare, anzi questo giovedì ci riprovo e vediamo come risponde il corpo.

GundamRX91 25-10-2013 07:26 AM

24/10/2013 climbing training


A) inverted row pull up 2x16@7
B1) pull up ms 5x8
B2) push up ms 5x12
B3) chin up 5x8
B4) dips bar 5x10
B5) dips bench 5x10
B6) leg raise 5x5
C) dragon flag 3x1x8"
D1) pull up ms rest pause 2x5@20 (8" rest pause)
D2) dead lift 2x20@20 (con i dischi del D1)

campus board

A) climb/return (3 cm)(1->...8->...1) 2x1
B) two fingers pull up (3 cm) 3x3@7
C) two fingers dead hang (2 cm) 3x8"

system

roof and overhanging routes (@7)

stavolta il circuito l'ho sentito di meno, seppure la seconda parte fosse diversa (ma ho usato un sovraccarico). Voglio provare il rest pause sulle trazioni in modo più sistematico, per vedere quanto può essere utile per aumentare la forza in generale quando ho poco tempo.
Buono l'incremento sulle sospensioni al campus board nella tacca da 2 cm.

GundamRX91 30-10-2013 08:26 AM

29/10/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x17@7
B1) pull up ms 5x8
B2) push up ms 5x12
B3) chin up 5x9
B4) dips bar 5x10
B5) dips bench 5x12
B6) leg raise 5x6
C) dragon flag 4x1x6"
D1) pull up ms 5x2@20
D2) dead hang 5x1x12"@20 (1)

campus board

A) four fingers pull up 2x3@7
B) three fingers pull up 2x3@7
C) two fingers pull up 3x3@7
D) asymmetric climb (3 cm)(2+1->4->5) 2x3+3
E) dead hang (2 cm) 4x1x4"@20
F) dead hang (2 cm) 3x1x8"

system

overhanging routes.

(1) su prese svase

Inizio ad essere stanco... faccio ancora la sessione di giovedì e poi una settimana di scarico attivo direi che ci vuole.

GundamRX91 01-11-2013 09:28 AM

31/10/2013 climbing training
A) inverted row pull up 2x17@7
B1) pull up ms 5x8
B2) push up ms 5x13
B3) chin up 5x9
B4) dips bar 5x10
B5) dips bench 5x12
B6) crunch 5x15
C) dragon flag 4x1x6"
D) one arm 90° lock of 2x3x2"

campus board

A) four fingers dead hang (3 cm) 1x25"
B) three fingers dead hang (3 cm) 1x25"
C) two fingers dead hang (3 cm) 1x15"
D) four fingers dead hang (2 cm) 1x20"
E) three fingers dead hang (2 cm) 1x20"
F) two fingers dead hang (2 cm) 1x9"

system

roof and overhanging routes

Ultima sessione del mesociclo, ora inizio una settimana di scarico attivo.

GundamRX91 13-11-2013 07:23 AM

12/10/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x17@7
B1) pull up ms 5x8
B2) push up ms 5x13
B3) chin up 5x9
B4) dips bar 5x10
B5) dips bench 5x13
B6) leg raise with rotation 5x10
B7) dragon flag 5x1x6"
C) pull up 4x1@30
D) chin up 4x1@30

campus board

A) four fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x3@7
B) three fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x3@7
C) two fingers pull up (3 cm) 6x2@7
D) climb (3 cm) (1->2->3->4->5) 3x1
E) climb/return (3 cm) (1->2->3->4->3->2->1) 3x1
F) climb/return (3 cm) (1->2->3->2->1) 3x2

system

roof and overhanging routes

GundamRX91 15-11-2013 07:21 AM

14/10/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x17@7
B1) pull up 5x8
B2) push up ms 5x13
B3) chin up 5x10
B4) dips bar 5x11
B5) dips bench 5x14
B6) leg raise o.t.h. 5x7
B7) dragon flag 5x7"
C) assisted one arm pull up 6x1
D) assisted one arm chin up 6x1

campus board

A) dead hang (3 cm) 6x8"@25
B) dead hang (2 cm) 6x7"@20
C) two finger dead hang (3 cm) 4x6"@10
D) two finger dead hang (2 cm) 6x6"

system

overhanging and roof route@7

GundamRX91 04-12-2013 07:22 AM

03/12/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x13@10
B1) pull up 4x4@10
B2) push up ms 4x8@10
B3) chin up 4x5@10
B4) dips bar 4x5@10
B5) dips bench 4x7@10
C) leg raise 3x5
D) pull up 5x1@30
E) chin up 5x1@30

campus board

A) four finger pull up (3 cm) 2x2@10
B) three finger pull up (3 cm) 2x2@10
C) two finger pull up (3 cm) 2x2@10
D) climb (3 cm) (1->2->3->4->5->6->7->8) 6x1

system

A) overhanging and roof routes

Prima sessione dopo la settimana di scarico.

GundamRX91 06-12-2013 07:23 AM

05/12/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x13@10
B1) pull up 4x4@10
B2) push up ms 4x8@10
B3) chin up 4x5@10
B4) dips bar 4x5@10
B5) dips bench 4x7@10
C) leg raise 3x5
D) assisted one arm pull up 5x2
E) assisted one arm chin up 4x3

campus board

A) four fingers dead hang (3 cm) 6x4"@35
B) two fingers dead hang (3 cm) 3x8"@10
C) two fingers dead hang (2 cm) 3x6"

system

A) overhanging and roof routes

campus board

GundamRX91 11-12-2013 07:18 AM

10/12/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x13@10
B1) pull up 4x4@10
B2) push up ms 4x8@10
B3) chin up 4x5@10
B4) dips bar 4x5@10
B5) dips bench 4x7@10
C) leg raise 3x5
D) pull up 5x1@30
E) chin up 5x1@32

campus board

A) four finger pull up (3 cm) 2x2@10
B) three finger pull up (3 cm) 2x2@10
C) two finger pull up (3 cm) 2x2@10
D) climb (3 cm) (1->2->3->4->5->6->7->8) 6x1

system

A) overhanging and roof routes

Buono l'incremento di carico sui chin up.

GundamRX91 13-12-2013 07:34 AM

12/12/2013 climbing training

versione senza sovraccarico e ridotta come tempo...

GundamRX91 18-12-2013 07:41 AM

17/12/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x20
B1) pull up 3x6
B2) push up ms 3x8
B3) chin up 3x6
B4) dips bar 3x8
B5) dips bench 3x8
C) leg raise 3x3
D) pull up 5x2@20
E) chin up 5x2@20
F) assisted one arm pull up 3x2
G) one arm push up 3x2

campus board

A) four fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x2@20
B) three fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x2@20
C) two fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x2@20
D) climb + dead hang (3 cm)(1->4) 2x3+3

system

overhanging boulders

GundamRX91 23-12-2013 07:30 AM

19/12/2013 climbing training

scarico attivo

Devo recuperare un pò

GundamRX91 24-12-2013 07:17 AM

23/12/2013 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x20
B1) pull up 3x6
B2) push up ms 3x8
B3) chin up 3x6
B4) dips bar 3x8
B5) dips bench 3x8
C) leg raise 3x3
D) pull up 5x3@20
E) chin up 3x1@35
F) assisted one arm pull up 5x1
G) one arm push up 2x3+1x2

campus board

A) four fingers pull up (3 cm) 3x3
B) three fingers pull up (3 cm) 3x3
C) two fingers pull up (3 cm) 3x3
D) climb/return (3 cm)(1->3->1) 4x3

system

overhanging boulders

GundamRX91 05-01-2014 07:02 PM

05/01/2014 home training

Sessione mattutina

A) dips 2x20
B1) V push up 2x8
B2) push up ms 2x10
B3) diamond push up 2x10
C) asymmetric ms diamond push up 2x5+5
D) asymmetric ws diamond push up 2x5+5
E) one arm push up 3x1+1
F) pistols 3x5+5
G) bulgarian squat 3x5+5
H) one leg calf 3x30+30
I) hyperextension 3x8
L1) plank 2x10"
L2) side plank 2x10"+10"
L3) crunch 2x15
M) L-sit up 3x5"
N) L-sit (from two chairs) 3x2"
O) easy front leverl ( from two chairs) 3x2"
P) frog stand 3x5"

stretching

Sessione pomeridiana

A) spinte manubri panca orizzontale 5x3@22
B) rematore ad un braccio 5x5@22
C) curl manubri 3x4@12
D) dragon flag 3x5"

avevo un pò di tempo libero e visto che il meteo non è stato bello ne ho approfittato per allenarmi.

GundamRX91 10-01-2014 07:15 AM

07/01/2014 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x13@10
B1) pull up 3x4@10
B2) push up ms 3x8@10
B3) chin up 3x5@10
B4) dips bar 3x5@10
B5) dips bench 3x7@10
C) easy front lever 3x5"+5"
D) pull up 5x1@30
E) chin up 5x1@35
F) one arm push up 3x1

campus board

A) four fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x2@10
B) two fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x2@10
C) climb (3 cm) (1->2->3->4->5->6->7->8) 2x1
D) climb/return (3 cm) (1->3->5+5->4->3->2->1) 2x1
E) climb&return (3 cm) (1->3->1) 2x2
F) slow climb (3 cm)(1->3->5+5) 4x1

system

hoverhanging and roof routes

GundamRX91 10-01-2014 07:46 AM

09/01/2014 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x13@10
B1) pull up 3x5@10
B2) push up ms 3x9@10
B3) chin up 3x6@10
B4) dips bar 3x6@10
B5) dips bench 3x8@10
C) torso raiser 5x3
D) assist one arm chin up 3x2
E) assist one arm pull up 3x2
F) one arm 45° lock off (from chin up) 3",4",5"
G) one arm 90° lock off (from pull up) 3x5"

campus board

A) dead hang (3 cm) 8",10",10"@25
B) dead hang (2 cm) 3x8"@20
C) two fingers dead hang (3 cm) 3x5"@10
D) two fingers dead hang (2 cm) 3x6"

system

hoverhanging and roof boulders

GundamRX91 15-01-2014 08:57 AM

14/01/2014 climbing training

scarico attivo.

GundamRX91 17-01-2014 11:55 AM

16/01/2014 climbing training

scarico attivo.

GundamRX91 22-01-2014 10:57 AM

21/01/2014 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x20
B1) pull up 3x8
B2) push up ms 3x12
B3) chin up 3x8
B4) dips bar 3x8
B5) dips bench 3x10
C) one leg front lever 3x5"+5"
D) pull up 3x4@10
E) chin up 3x4@10

campus board

A) four fingers dead hang (3 cm) 2x15"
B) three fingers dead hang (3 cm) 2x15"
C) two fingers dead hang (3 cm) 2x6"
D) climb&return (3 cm)(1->2->3->4->3->2->1) 3x2
E) climb/return (3 cm)(2+1->4->1) 3x2

system

Overhanging routes.

GundamRX91 24-01-2014 08:56 AM

23/01/2014 home training

push up in tutte le salse.

23/01/2014 climbing training

pull up e chin up in tutte le salse, poi campus board e circuiti e boulder in strapiombo.

Ieri complice una giornata forzata di ferie ho avuto la possibilità di effettuare un doppio allenamento: la mattina a casa ho fatto un'oretta di allenamento principalmente con esercizi di push up, mentre nel pomeriggio un paio d'ore di allenamento in palestra dove ho privilegiato le trazioni: tra i pull up e i chin up alla sbarra, le monobraccio assistite e le trazioni al pan gullich , credo di aver effettuato almeno un centinaio di trazioni.
Stamane ho qualche doms....:D

GundamRX91 29-01-2014 07:27 AM

28/01/2014 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 2x13@10
B1) pull up 4x4@10
B2) push up ms 4x8@10
B3) chin up 4x5@10
B4) dips bar 4x5@10
B5) dips bench 4x7@10
C) pull up 3x3@20
D) chin up 3x3@20

finger board

A) three fingers pull up 3x2
B) two fingers dead hang (1 cm pocket) 3x1"

campus board

A) four fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x2@10
B) two fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x2@10
C) climb (3 cm) (1->2->3->4->5->6->7->8) 2x1
D) climb/return (3 cm) (1->3->5+5->4->3->2->1) 2x1
E) climb&return (3 cm) (1->3->1) 2x2
F) slow climb (3 cm)(1->3->5+5) 2x1

system

hoverhanging and roof routes

GundamRX91 31-01-2014 07:25 AM

30/01/2014 climbing training

A) inverted row pull up 3x10@10
B1) pull up 3x5@10
B2) push up ms 3x9@10
B3) chin up 3x6@10
B4) dips bar 3x6@10
B5) dips bench 3x10@10
C) torso raiser 5x3
D) assist one arm chin up 2,3,3
E) assist one arm pull up 3x2

campus board

A) dead hang (3 cm) 11",11",11"@25
B) dead hang (2 cm) 3x6"@20
C) assisted one hand/two fingers dead hang (3 cm) 3x8"
D) two fingers dead hang (2 cm) 3x6"

system

hoverhanging and roof boulders

Ho dimenticato di fare i bloccaggi monobraccio.... :(

GundamRX91 05-02-2014 08:42 AM

04/02/2014 climbing training

A1) inverted row pull up 3x15
A2) pull up 3x7
A3) push up ms 3x10
A4) chin up 3x8
A5) dips bar 3x10
A6) dips bench 3x10
A7) leg raise over the head 3x6
B) pull up round holds 5x5

finger board

A) dead hang (3 cm) 2x20"
B) dead hang (2 cm) 2x20"
C) dead hang (1 cm) 2x12"
D) dead hang three fingers 2x8"

campus board

A) climb (3 cm) (1->2->3->4->5) 2x1
B) climb&return (3 cm) (2+1->4->1) 2x3+3
C) climb&return (3 cm) (3+1->5->6->3->1) 2x2+2
D) three fingers pull up (3 cm) 3x3
E) two fingers pull up (3 cm) 3x3
F) two fingers dead hang (2 cm) 3x4"

system

roof and overhanging routes

GundamRX91 09-02-2014 08:09 AM

08/02/2014 rock climbing

Finalmente sono riuscito a chiudere una via degna di nota, anche se non sono molto contento perchè ho preso la catena invece di rinviare da una presa.... sicuramente la rifarò, intanto me la porto a casa :D
La via è un bel strapiombo di dita con diversi biditi in sequenza e passo chiave su una piccola tacca netta e un monodito, poi l'uscita in catena è su delle piccole tacche svase.
Poi ho provato una via che sarà il prossimo grosso progetto: un 8a+/8b veramente duro. Per ora riesco a fare i primi metri e l'uscita in catena (facile, anche se le prese sono veramente dolorose visto che si tratta di prendere costoni di roccia aguzza), mentre la sezione centrale presenza una serie di passi su piccoli e dolorosi monoditi/biditi in forte strapiombo.
Adesso vedrò anche di rivalutare l'allenamento al fine di migliorare proprio la forza sulle dita, oltre che sulle singole braccia (infatti sto sempre cercando di arrivare alle trazioni monobraccio...).

GundamRX91 12-02-2014 08:50 AM

11/02/2014 climbing training

A1) inverted row chin up 3x15
A2) spiderman push up 3x10
A3) inverted row pull up 3x15
A4) push up ms feets up 3x15
A5) high pull up 3x5
A6) dips bar 3x10
A7) one leg front lever 3x5"+5"
B) assisted one arm chin up 5x2
C) assisted one arm pull up 5x2
D) 45° one arm lock off from chin up 5x3"+3"
E) 90° one arm lock off from pull up 5x3"+3"

campus board

A) 4 fingers pull up (3 cm) 2x2@10, 2x2@15, 2x2@20
B) 2 fingers pull up (3 cm) 4x2@10, 4x1@15
C) climb/return (3 cm) (1->3->5+5->4->3->2->1) 2x1
D) climb&return (3 cm) (3+1->4->5->3+1) 6x1+1

Troppa gente in palestra.... Non sono riuscito ad allenarmi sui pannelli!!!!! :(


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